Paris Fashion Week is over, and we pick our TOP 5.
At Dior Homme, designer Kris Van Assche featured our favourite pop of red in two all-red fluid tailored exits and a simple top teamed with billowing pleat-front grey trousers. It also sprang up in suit form at Ann Demeulemeester (when the queen of black shows colour, you know it’s time to sit up and take notice). At Louis Vuitton they christened their shade ‘motel red’ and indeed it shone out of the darkened venue like a neon sign, appearing on scarves, and hybrid quilted puffas/tailored blazers.
The soundtrack of a Woody Allen movie and a park bench conjured up a stroll through Central Park on a winter’s morning. A stream of models meandered out in an effortless everyday wardrobe. Fair isle knitted blazers, pea coats, duffle coats and a quilted gilet – what’s not to like? No male shopper could feel threatened by this collection, but when you looked closer there were the design details that set Junya Watanabe apart: a leather donkey jacket with plaid yoke; the recurring reversible theme in jackets; contrast elbow patches; and the kind of top-stitching clothing geeks get all hot under the collar about.
The effect of the world’s weather showed on the catwalk this season more then ever. Puffa coats popped up in collection after collection. At Paul Smith they arrived in silver as part of the Frank Zappa meets Nasa-themed collection. At Lanvin a black jacket version came with a large quilted collar to protect from harsh winters. At Louis Vuitton the puffa detail was strong throughout, including coats and jackets with a zip-on puffa gilet attachment at the pockets (worn hanging down on the catwalk to show the multi-purpose function). These came in black, red and brown – the other colour to emerge as a key trend for A/W and the perfect antidote to the brights for colourphobes.
Adam Kimmel is a man who not only makes great (albeit expensive) clothes, he also exudes a contagious passion for his muse and collection that is impossible not to soak up. This season he teamed up with artist Dan Attoe and headed to the ‘down and dirty midwest’ to make a film where motorcycle punk meets Twin Peaks meets mountain man. The resulting collection ranges from leather biker and hunting jackets right through to a doublebreasted suit. For those of you without the budget for the mainline collection, a capsule collection for Carhartt will be available from May.
The Baroque salon at Hotel Westin was the setting for Thom Browne’s Tim Burtonesque dinner party. It was a sit-down dinner for 42 models, who daintily skewered tiny morsels with mechanical precision from a plate of perfectly placed sweetcorn and broad beans. The table was resplendent with moss-covered candlesticks, a trio of roast turkeys, woodland foliage, foxes, white rabbits, winter berries and blackbirds. As the strains of 18th century courtly dance music started up, so commenced an intricately choreographed procession of musical chairs. The ‘guests’ rose at random intervals and circled the table at a ceremonially slow pace, swapping places with their opposites and allowing the audience to view the mainly tailored check-based breeches and blazer collection. This was a superb way to close fashion week.