2011 New York Fashion Week ended and we Pick our Top 5 Men’s Designers.
Y-3 presented a collection showing off designer Yohji Yamamoto’s deconstruction skills mixed with the tech-y and sporty vibe that is the backbone of the brand. In heavy wool felt, the color scheme ranged from rich chocolate to army green and buffalo plaid — part of the collection’s tribute to the great American Wild West. Cool multi-pocket cargo pants, shown with great outerwear.
The of the most interesting things to watch this New York Fashion Week has been how the handful of American designers who really hit their stride these past few years — a time when classic American style came to a fore in global style, not incidentally — figure out their next steps. Some designers are stuck in the mud, spinning (and re-spinning) the same looks that got them this far; Billy Reid, however, the designer from Florence, Alabama, who made his name putting a contemporary spin on good ol’ boy style, is cruising right along and pairing sophisticated (and luxurious) wool and velvet tailoring with chunky knit sweaters and rugged workwear. The menswear on show was classic Reid: masculine suiting mixed with more workmanly pieces, cut on the slightly looser side—a little rope in the shoulder and a slight boot-cut to the pants.
GANT by Michael Bastian
Bastian delivers a sporty, chic, even sexy collection based on an incredibly well-dressed ski instructor. Favorites, like cozy knitwear in bright 70s hues and excellent cords — especially in mauve and tweeds. Sport coats, parkas, puffer vests, embroidered khakis, camo pants, and so on, for men and for women—are true-blue U.S.A. But the styling, according to the designer, comes from the Swedes.
Band of Outsiders
For his label’s first-ever runway show, Scott Sternberg focuses on technical pieces like knits and khakis, followed by the brand’s mixed-up West Coast vibe. There were sporty and bohemian motifs throughout the collections, notably French terry sweats and anoraks, blanket wool (tailored into jackets and draped into ponchos) and Native American-inspired graphics knit into sweaters.
The cardigan was king at the fall Steven Alan presentation. Nordic and shawl cardigans paired with cropped, collared shirts and soft tailoring comprised Alan’s West Coat, college-prep look. Pops of down met tightly-rolled khakis and skinny ties, creating a relaxed style teetering on both lived-in and constructed. It felt every bit as carefree as the college years that inspired it.